How to grow delicious melons in a greenhouse: tips for the selection of varieties and agricultural technology
Melon is a culture from hot countries, but it is also grown in central Russia and even in the north. True, in the open field, obtaining a normal harvest of tasty fruits depends on the weather and perhaps not every year, therefore, melons are often planted in a greenhouse. The appearance of polycarbonate greenhouses gave a new impetus to this direction, and a good harvest of fragrant fruits in regions uncharacteristic for melons and gourds is now no surprise.
Melon varieties for the greenhouse
Of course, it will not be possible to grow real melons, large, with an aroma that drives you crazy, in a greenhouse: for this, the fruits must bask in the hot sun. Greenhouse melons are usually medium-sized, but this does not prevent them from being tasty and fragrant. Most of the varieties intended for cultivation in the open field can be used for greenhouses, but there are also specific examples that are intended for greenhouses.
In any case, you should not try to plant late-ripening melons in the central regions. The choice should be limited to early varieties or, in extreme cases, medium ripening times. Early ripening melons are ready to be harvested in polycarbonate greenhouses already in the middle of summer.
It is desirable that the variety be regionalized for a specific region, but there are not many examples of melon varieties for non-hot climatic zones. For example, the State Register of Breeding Achievements of the Russian Federation recommends only the Princess Svetlana variety for protected ground in the central region. The growing season for him is about three months, the fruits of an uncharacteristic for melons are almost white, round, weighing about 1.5 kg. The pulp is orange, juicy, of excellent taste, with a characteristic and bright aroma. Melons can be stored for up to 20 days and are well transported over long distances.
Princess Svetlana differs from most varieties in white color
In addition to this variety, summer residents grow other modern varieties and hybrids in greenhouses.
- Titovka is one of the earliest ripening varieties, the harvest is ready 55–70 days after germination. The fruits are slightly elongated, depending on the conditions, both small specimens and fruits weighing up to 3.5 kg can grow, the color of the bark is orange. The pulp is white, fleshy, good taste. Resists disease to a moderate degree.
Titovka is an early ripening variety with not the smallest fruits
- Krinichanka is also a very early variety: the first fruits are ready 70 days after germination. They are slightly oval, weighing about 2 kg, yellow-orange in color. The pulp is rich in sugars, its color ranges from greenish to creamy. One of the few representatives of melons that can grow in partial shade.
Krinichanka is one of the first to mature
- The F1 Scythian gold is an early ripe hybrid, the fruits ripen a little later than that of Krinichanka, they are round, beautiful, weighing about 1 kg, with yellow bark. The pulp is juicy, aromatic, tasty, very sweet. The hybrid has a high yield and disease resistance.
Gold of the Scythians - early ripening high-yielding hybrid
- Nadezhda is a cold-resistant early maturing variety, the growing season is about 70 days. Fruits are oval, ribbed, lemon-yellow in color, weighing about 1 kg. The pulp is tender, light orange, fragrant. Disease resistance is average.
Nadezhda is not afraid of cold snaps, and her shape is uneven
- The Muscovite is even more cold-resistant than Nadezhda, the ripening time of the fruits is approximately the same. Melons are small, from 0.5 to 1.5 kg, slightly oval, with orange pulp. The taste is variable: the most ripe specimens are very sweet, harvested a little ahead of time, have an average sugar content, but the original aroma of lemon or orange. The disadvantage is that the crop must be harvested on time, otherwise the fruit will greatly lose in quality.
- The collective farmer is a variety known to everyone. It has been grown since 1943 both in the open field and in greenhouses, in almost all regions where melons can be cultivated. A medium-ripening variety (77–95 days), resistant to the whims of the weather. Fruits are smooth, round, small (0.7-1.3 kg), dark yellow or orange. The pulp is white, dense, semi-crispy, juicy. The taste is excellent, the aroma is not too strong. The fruits are well stored and transported.
The collective farmer is a well-known, well-deserved variety
In addition to the above varieties, melons Amber, Solnechnaya, Original, Canary, Gaul, Augen, etc. can be recommended for cultivation in polycarbonate greenhouses.
Reviews about varieties
Greenhouse selection and preparation
Melon requires a lot of heat and light, which must be taken into account when choosing a greenhouse. It is in this regard that a polycarbonate greenhouse is the best option for protected ground. Polycarbonate is a hard, colorless plastic with a very high light transmittance (over 90%). It is lightweight, retains heat well, and is easy to process, as a result of which polycarbonate greenhouses are produced in various sizes and shapes. Among modern materials for greenhouses, it is rightfully considered the best. These greenhouses have one drawback - the high price. In greenhouse construction, cellular polycarbonate is mainly used: walls are made of thin plates parallel to each other and connected by jumpers.
Melon looks like a small plant, but it requires a considerable area of nutrition. On ordinary melons, plants are located at a considerable distance from each other, which the gardener cannot afford in a greenhouse. We have to carry out a compacted planting, and place the lashes of plants vertically, tying them to trellises.
In this regard, the choice of greenhouses is limited to high options: it is desirable that the height of the greenhouse is at least two meters. Immediately after the preparation of the beds, it is necessary to equip strong supports to which the shoots will be tied, and then the growing fruits. These can be any strong vertical pillars with rows of thick wire stretched between them every half a meter in height. So that the trellises do not clutter up the greenhouse, they are equipped along the side walls. Thus, melon beds are placed no further than 50 cm from the walls.
For planting melons, choose a tall greenhouse
Despite the excellent light-transmitting and heat-retaining properties of polycarbonate, it is advisable to purchase heating equipment and lamps in order to obtain a guaranteed yield in the middle lane or Siberia. It may not be necessary to heat the greenhouse, especially when growing early varieties of melons planted with pre-grown seedlings. But if you sow with seeds, then the seedlings can still get under cool weather, and even the greenhouse will have to be heated for some time. In case of cloudy weather, additional illumination with phytolamps will not hurt.
Naturally, in the fall, all garbage, including plant residues, should be removed from the greenhouse, and possibly a soil change was carried out if it was used for several years, and even more so if serious plant diseases were noted in the greenhouse.
The overwhelming majority of literary sources provide advice on growing melons through seedlings, although, of course, almost no one in the south does this. It seems that the possibility of direct sowing of seeds in a greenhouse bed is not considered in vain: early and mid-early varieties of melons will have time to give a good harvest in a polycarbonate greenhouse and without growing seedlings.
Soil selection and preparation
The melon makes increased demands on the composition of the soil: it will not grow anywhere. Optimally - medium loam with neutral acidity, but in no case clay, it must be corrected by adding a sufficient amount of sand (at least a bucket per 1 m2). Acidic soils are necessarily limed with any alkaline materials (chalk, slaked lime, dolomite flour). It is good if cucumbers grew in the greenhouse before the melons, it is bad - tomatoes or any melons.
For autumn digging, it is recommended to add half a bucket of humus, 12-15 g of urea, 20-25 g of superphosphate and 10-12 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m2... Potash fertilizers can be replaced with a liter can of wood ash. If the gardener has a sufficient amount of peat at his disposal, you can prepare the soil for the melon bed by mixing it with sand in a ratio of 3: 1, and when forming the ridge, add about 250 g of chalk and 30–40 g of azophoska for each square meter.
Often in the greenhouse, ridges 15–20 cm high are built along the walls, on which a single-row sowing of melon seeds is carried out. Another approach allows you to prepare a warm bed, but requires physical labor. It is as follows.
- The top layer of soil 20–25 cm high is removed by folding it side by side, and first drainage (crushed stone, expanded clay, small tree branches) is laid in the resulting hole, then grass or hay.
You can even put all kinds of garbage in the lower part of the garden
- Spread with a layer of 5–6 cm of humus, on top of which there is sawdust or fallen leaves. Then the removed soil is returned to its place (if necessary, adding chalk and azophoska to it).
- The finished bed is watered with warm water and covered with a black film.
Covered with foil, the bed heats up quickly
After a few days, the bed warms up, and you can sow seeds in it earlier than usual.
Preparation of planting material
Seeds for sowing can be bought at the store, or you can collect them from the melon you like, bought for food. But the second way can lead to an unpredictable result: it may turn out to be a melon of a late ripening period or even a hybrid, from which it makes no sense to take seeds.
Melon seeds are stored for a very long time, they do not need to be purchased annually, moreover, fresh seeds give a large number of barren flowers, that is, male flowers. It is best to use seeds that are 3-6 years old. However, if they have been lying for a very long time, it is worthwhile in winter to check them for germination in a known way to the gardener, soaking a dozen and putting them in a wet cloth by the battery. If after a week and a half more than half hatch, you can sow them.
Reliable seeds can be sown without preparation, even when dry: in moist, warm soil, they will certainly sprout.
But if there is time, it is better to prepare them in advance for sowing. First, they get rid of the empty, lightest specimens by pouring the seeds into a jar of salt water (3-5 g of salt per 100 ml of water). Bad seeds will float in a couple of minutes, good ones will drown. The number of female flowers can be increased by heating the seeds at 50 ° C for 2-3 hours.
Melon seeds are quite large, similar to cucumber
For disinfection, the seeds are etched for 20-30 minutes in a pink solution of potassium permanganate, and then washed with clean water. You can also treat them with growth stimulants or boric acid solution, but this is completely optional. But hardening will definitely not be superfluous: after two hours of soaking in warm (30–35 ° C) water, the seeds are kept in the refrigerator overnight in a damp cloth. It is better if the cycle is warm - repeat the cold a couple of times.
If there is a need for a faster emergence of seedlings, the seeds can even germinate until microscopic roots appear and only then sow them in the garden. But all these are various options that can be omitted: it is highly desirable only to disinfect the seeds, and then if their manufacturer is not credible.
What can and can not be planted next to melons
If the list of desirable and undesirable crops in the open field is significant, then there is not much choice for a greenhouse: it is unlikely that, for example, radish will be planted in it! You can plant beans and any spicy herbs next to the melon; it will feel good in the company of peppers and eggplants. It is good to sow any spicy herbs: although they do not need a greenhouse, they will scare off harmful insects that periodically fly into the greenhouse with their smells.
But the advice on planting melons and cucumbers together raises some doubts. First, these crops have completely different moisture requirements for both air and soil. Secondly, cucumbers are related to melon, and in some cases they can even be pollinated, which spoils the quality of the fruit. Do not plant potatoes next to melons that will cause them to wilt.
Melons are often planted interspersed with watermelons. Both crops have the same growing conditions, they are wonderfully adjacent to each other. True, both melon and watermelon require a lot of space, which must be taken into account when planting.
Distance between plants, planting scheme
In addition to the usual care (watering, feeding, etc.), melons also require the constant formation of bushes, they need free access. This must also be taken into account when choosing a landing pattern, except that it simply requires a lot of space. But in the greenhouse, every centimeter must be saved, so the line planting, popular in the open field, with a minimum of 60 x 90 cm, is too wasteful here.
It is most convenient to place melons in the greenhouse along the side walls, where, 40-50 cm from the wall, dig up a narrow bed (or better, a comb) and sow seeds in it in one row with a distance between the holes of at least 40 cm.
Melons are planted on the edge so that they do not interfere with the rest of the vegetables.
For sowing a melon, it is necessary that the soil at a depth of 10–12 cm warms up to at least 15 aboutC. The same minimum value should have the night air temperature, and the daytime - at least 20 aboutC. In colder conditions, seed hatching will be greatly delayed, and at temperatures below 10 aboutSince they can disappear altogether.
Consequently, depending on the region, the current weather and the quality of the greenhouse, sowing dates come in different dates in May. Under favorable conditions in the middle lane, sowing seeds in a polycarbonate greenhouse is possible immediately after the May Day holidays.
Planting melons correctly in the greenhouse
The technique of sowing in a greenhouse is no different from sowing in unprotected soil: it is common to most similar crops. This is done like this:
- In the designated places, small holes are made with a scoop, where local fertilizers are applied (half a glass of ash and a pinch of urea), mixed well and gently watered with warm water.
Local fertilization from the simplest components is very effective
- To a depth of about 3 cm, 2-3 prepared seeds (or 4-5 dry seeds) are placed in each hole at a distance of 2-3 cm from each other, excess seedlings are removed after their regrowth.
Several seeds are placed in the hole
- The holes are covered with soil and lightly tamped.
After tamping the soil, it remains to wait for seedlings
Unlike open ground, it is not necessary to cover the seedlings in the greenhouse with spunbond, unless, of course, a cold snap is expected. The emergence of seedlings can be expected in 7-10 days. Immediately after that, you should open the window and lower the temperature to 16-18 for a few days. aboutC. The night heat is especially terrible for seedlings, from which they quickly stretch out.
Melon care consists of well-known activities: watering, loosening, dressing. In addition, the plants have to be shaped so that they can feed as many fruits as possible and bring them to marketable condition.
Humidity and watering
Watering melons in the greenhouse is carried out infrequently: at first - once a week, but abundantly. It is important that the water is warm, heated in the sun. They try to water it at the root, without soaking the stems and especially the root collar. Foliage drooping indicates a lack of moisture, it must be added. But with an excess of water, the risk of disease and plant death increases. While the lashes allow, after watering, shallow loosening is carried out with the removal of weeds. With the appearance of side shoots, the bushes slightly spud.
With the appearance of fruits, watering is first increased, allowing them to grow to the size of an orange, then gradually reduced, and a month before harvesting they stop altogether. With this mode, the fruits accumulate more sugar and add shelf life.
Air humidity is also of great importance: melon is a drought-resistant plant, but it is impossible to create dry air in a greenhouse, even by systematically ventilating it. However, the relative humidity should not exceed 60–70%, especially during ripening.
The problem with the temperature in the greenhouse is solved simply. Perhaps, in May, you will have to warm up the air using any devices, but in the summer, on the contrary, ventilate. For most of its life, the melon likes temperatures of 25-30 aboutC. Exceptions are a few days after germination, when the temperature should be lowered to 16-18 aboutC, and the beginning of fruit formation, when 20-22 is enough aboutHappy and 16-18 aboutWith the night.
Melon is an interesting plant: daylight hours for its development need a long one, but not very much. It develops poorly with a lack of solar radiation, but behaves incorrectly if the daylight hours in the first months of plant development significantly exceed 12 hours. That is why it is necessary to plant the melon as early as possible so that it has time to bloom before the onset of the longest days.
Thus, the period of illumination should not be extended, and the intensity may be worth adding if cloudy weather lasts for a long time during the ripening period. For this, greenhouses are equipped with fluorescent or LED lamps or special phyto-lamps.
The spectral composition of the lamps must be identical to the composition of solar radiation
Melons are fed in the greenhouse a little more often than in the open field. The minimum amount of dressings is three: in the phase of two true leaves, with the opening of the first flowers and at the beginning of fruit growth, when they reach the size of an average plum. The first two dressings are best done with mullein infusion with the addition of wood ash, and the third - only with ash infusion.
However, if it is noticed that only one fruit is growing on the bush, and the rest have stopped in size, top dressing should be added. It is better not to use mineral fertilizers, especially a month before harvesting the fruits. Especially should limit the application of nitrogen fertilizers: they are required only before the set of melons.
In the open ground, the melon is pollinated by insects: ants, bees, etc. Since there are no or very few of them in the greenhouse, the gardener has to take on the responsibility of pollination. The procedure is simple, but painstaking. Therefore, if it is warm outside, you can ventilate the greenhouse with the hope that bees will fly through the open doors. They fly especially often in the morning, you can even attract them with an open jar of sugar syrup. And yet, you need to learn how to artificially pollinate flowers.
First, a large number of male flowers bloom on the melons, and only after a few days female flowers appear, opening in the morning hours. It is very easy to distinguish them: male ones grow on thin pedicels, their stamens are clearly distinguishable. You can use a brush, collecting pollen from several male flowers in the morning and transferring it inside the female ones. You can simply pick a few male flowers, tear off the petals from them and touch the stamens several times to the inner surface of the female flowers.
Male and female flowers are easy to distinguish
Formation of bushes: pruning, pinching, pinching
The most skilled job in caring for melons is the formation of a bush, which includes systematic pruning or pinching of shoots, removal of stepsons and excess fruits. Unfortunately, even with strict observance of all the rules of agricultural technology, it is impossible to grow more than 5-6 fruits on the bush, and in the case of large-fruited varieties, it turns out to bring only 2-3 specimens to ripeness.
There are several approaches to the formation of a bush, and they differ in the open field and in the greenhouse. However, an ordinary summer resident may not particularly delve into the intricacies of this art and carry out pruning only to a minimal extent: extra fruits in the greenhouse without daily care (and after all, few of us can constantly visit the site) will simply die off themselves.
In general, it is worth knowing that when grown in a greenhouse, a melon is most often formed into one stem. However, this should not be the main shoot: most varieties almost do not form ovaries on it. Even at the stage of 5–6 leaves, the young plant is pinched, removing the top. Literally a few days after that, several lateral shoots begin to grow in it, and it is on them that the harvest is mainly formed.
The plant is not able to feed all the lateral shoots in the greenhouse. Therefore, as soon as the most powerful of them is determined, the remaining side shoots are cut off, and the left one is looked after. As soon as it reaches a length of 35–40 cm, it is loosely tied to the trellis with a soft twine. Everything that has formed on it closer to the ground is cut off or cut off. The shoot begins to grow and branch out, producing shoots of the third order, the most fruitful.
Any schemes for the formation of bushes clearly show what exactly needs to be removed.
One ovary is left on each lateral shoot. Leave no more than 3 leaves above the ovaries, pinch the top above the last. If the shoot turns out to be infertile, it is removed almost entirely. The central shoot (which, in fact, became the main one) is pinched when it reaches the ceiling of the greenhouse. All fruitful shoots are tied to a trellis, trying to direct them vertically. The stepsons emerging from the axils of the leaves break out while they are still young.
Video: forming a melon bush
As the growing fruits quickly gain mass, they may come off and fall off. Therefore, when they reach the size of a large chicken egg, the melons are placed in special or any existing nets, suitable in size, which are also tied to a trellis.
The purpose of the net is to protect the fruits from falling, but they are still better illuminated.
Features of care in different regions
A polycarbonate greenhouse is a closed space, so the care of melons in it depends little on the region; Basically, only the timing of sowing seeds and harvesting differs, and also, sometimes, in harsh regions, there is a need for additional heating.
For example, in the Moscow region, and even more so in the Urals, Siberia, as well as in the North-West region, including the Leningrad region, melon is very rarely sown with seeds even in a greenhouse, preferring to plant seedlings. Peat pots are used for growing seedlings.
In the Moscow region, seedlings are planted in a greenhouse without heating in the first half of May, placing from 2 to 5 plants per 1 m2... To maintain the required soil moisture in relatively dry air, the beds are mulched with sawdust, neutralizing their acidifying effect with ash. All non-fruiting shoots must be cut out, and everything that is closer than 30–40 cm from the ground is removed.
The climatic conditions of Belarus are very similar to those near Moscow, here, too, seeds are rarely sown directly in the garden.
In the Urals, melons are planted in a greenhouse along with tomatoes and cucumbers: you have to save every square centimeter. Melons are planted in seedlings on a mound 5–6 cm high, and after 5–7 days they are tied to a trellis. Bushes are formed in one or 2-3 stems. Every week, a little urea is added to the water for irrigation, and from the second half of summer - ash.
In the North-West regions, they prefer to build very high beds, and even use a thick layer of mulch on them. Be sure to ventilate the greenhouses in order to prevent the accumulation of moist air, but they still carry out artificial pollination.
Most of the territory of Ukraine, with the exception of the north itself, like the south of Russia, manages to grow melons without greenhouses, and if greenhouses are used here, then only for growing seedlings, which are then moved to open ground. Indeed, under the bright sun, the fruits ripen better and become sweeter!
Video: basic operations when growing melons in a greenhouse
Diseases and pests of melons in the greenhouse, the fight against them
Most varieties and hybrids of melons very rarely get sick and are attacked by pests, so gardeners often do not pay attention to the need to combat them at all. Most often, melons in a greenhouse suffer from powdery mildew and anthracnose, sometimes they are overcome by spotting.
- Powdery mildew appears first on the leaves, then migrates to the shoots. It looks like flour: small white spots. The leaves fall off very quickly, and if the disease has gone far, the fruits also deteriorate. Thorough cleaning in the greenhouse before sowing is a good prevention of this disease. When signs of disease appear, plants are sprayed with sulfur preparations.
Powdery mildew really looks like flour
- Anthracnose appears as large yellowish spots on all parts of the plant. Subsequently, a dirty pink coating begins to appear on the spots. Infection is especially dangerous in conditions of high humidity, therefore, frequent ventilation of the greenhouse allows it to be avoided. The disease is treated with 1% Bordeaux liquid.
Anthracnose spoils the fruit
- Olive spot manifests itself as brown spots on the leaves and ulcers on the shoots, sometimes ulcers migrate to the fruit. Prevention and control measures are the same as for powdery mildew.
With olive spot, the spots are brownish in color.
The most common melon pests are melon aphids and spider mites. They suck the juices from the leaves, weakening the plants greatly. Prevention - weed control and crop rotation in the greenhouse. In case of a massive invasion of insects, the plants are sprayed with a concentrated solution of laundry soap or Karbofos according to the instructions.
Aphids suck out juices, quickly destroy leaves
If no diseases were observed in the greenhouse in previous years, preventive spraying is not carried out, otherwise it is possible to use relatively safe formulations. In most cases, it is sufficient to treat the foliage with an infusion of wood ash with the addition of laundry soap. Gardeners, who do not shy away from chemicals, use, in particular, a solution of copper oxychloride (0.4%) every 10-12 days.
Copper oxychloride is a drug somewhat more convenient to use than Bordeaux mixture. But it is safer to use biologics for prophylactic purposes, for example, Fitosporin. Quite good results are given by solutions of Tsitovir or Zircon, used at the stage of 3-4 leaves and when buds appear.
Harvesting and storage
The very first melons in polycarbonate greenhouses can be obtained in early July, but usually the harvest takes place in August and September. Melons growing in nets are evenly illuminated, therefore they ripen several days earlier than those lying on the ground. Determining the degree of ripeness of a melon is very simple, not like a watermelon: they should be colored in a color characteristic of the variety and smell more or less strong and pleasant. If the fruit is almost ripe, it will reach during storage. If you pick clearly green melons, they will have to be thrown away.
Melons should not be left on the bushes for longer than normal: many varieties burst when overripe. The fruit is cut with a stalk of a convenient length. They are transported to the storage on a soft bedding, protecting them from blows. Early varieties of melons, usually grown in greenhouses, are not stored for long, but even for the prescribed period, they should be stored correctly, preferably separately from other fruits, and even more so vegetables. The optimum temperature is 1-3 ° C, the air humidity is not higher than 80%.
The advent of polycarbonate greenhouses has greatly simplified the cultivation of thermophilic crops, including melons. Such greenhouses reduce the laboriousness of caring for plants, maintain heat better, and allow more sunlight to pass through. Melons in polycarbonate greenhouses are successfully grown in most regions, including in the north of the Leningrad region and in Siberia.
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How to grow melons, large and sweet in a greenhouse? Video.
How to grow melons, large and sweet, in a polycarbonate greenhouse in the Moscow region? Growing melon seedlings without the hassle. Planting, leaving, forming a melon in a greenhouse. Rationing of melon fruits.
I grow melons in a greenhouse, producing very sweet fruits weighing two to four kilograms. In 2016, she removed 31 kg of fruits from four plants, despite the rainy summer.
I tried to grow non-grafted melons under the covering material. They grow small (up to 1 kg) and do not always have time to ripen in the garden. They mature later, of course, indoors.
You can grow grafted melons, you can read about it in the article “Vaccinations of melons. Melons in cold climates. Personal experience" - HERE ... Grafting a melon on lagenaria does not work, and melon also has poor compatibility with pumpkin and zucchini. We need a special rootstock, but we do not sell the seeds of such rootstocks, you need to order in China on the taobao website. In addition, re-grading often comes from China, especially if ordered in small quantities, and rootstocks with different leaves grow from one package of seeds. A large volume is expensive, and anyway there may be a mis-grading, there is no confidence in the result, this is an order at your own peril and risk, you can spend money, time, effort, and still not get the result. For me, growing melons in a greenhouse is the easiest way, the climate of the Moscow region allows it, and there are no difficulties with such cultivation.
A special pattern is used to form the melon. Knowledge should be not only related to the correct performance of pinching and tying the bushes, but also with what conditions should be in the greenhouse for the culture to grow and develop correctly. Otherwise, it will be difficult to determine the time in order to perform this procedure.
Suitable conditions for growing melons in a greenhouse: maintaining the temperature, which should be between +19 and +20 degrees, regular ventilation. By the way, airing promotes natural pollination, as insects gain access to the bushes. But, as a rule, the plant is pollinated by artificial means.
It is very important to give the plant good access to light.
The greenhouse film that wraps around the greenhouse may well help achieve these conditions. As an alternative to foil, polycarbonate can be used. It is also great, and even the best option for creating the right atmosphere.
For good development of the bushes in the first 14 days, they need to be fed. A solution of cow dung is well suited for this, it is diluted with water 1 to 6, and a solution of phosphate in proportions of 25 grams x 10 liters of water. In addition to fertilizing, water the young plant regularly and moderately. In the open field, everything is done exactly the same.